11.22.2015

Sew pencil skirt with lining. Step 9, how to sew a center back zipper?

(See next step 10, how to sew a center back vent?)

(See previous step 8, how to finish edges of the seam allowances?)

You will need to sew a lapped zipper. Lapped zipper is sewn so that the zipper teeth are not visible.
So then on the left (underlap) seam allowance of the zipper area create a new left fold line. It means, use a ruler and a sliver of the soap, and draw vertical line, 1/8 inches (0,4 cm) away from the original left fold line. Please Note: Click on photo to see a larges size.


Then turn your skirt right side out. Then fold the left seam allowance along the new left fold line, and pin to the left back panel.



View from the inside of the skirt.




Then turn your skirt right side out. Then baste the left (underlap) seam allowance and the left back panel together, then remove pins. 




View from the inside of the skirt.


Then turn your skirt right side out. Then take a piece of heavy paper. Heavy paper helps to pin and baste zipper. Then place a piece of heavy paper in the middle of the skirt.
  
Then take your zipper.
Then place the new left fold line to the zipper teeth. Then pin the left seam allowance and the right zipper tape together along the new left fold line.




View from the inside of the skirt.





View from the outside of the skirt.




Then baste (red thread) the left seam allowance and the right zipper tape together along the new left fold line, then remove pins.

View from the inside of the skirt.






Then use a sewing machine and sew from the top to the bottom of the zipper opening, sew along the new left fold line. Then remove red and yellow basting threads. Then press seam line, use a moisture press cloth.






View from the inside of the skirt.



Then take a piece of heavy paper again. Then place a piece of heavy paper in the middle of the skirt. Then pin the right back panel and the right seam allowance together along the original right fold line.

Then baste (yellow thread) the right back panel and the right seam allowance together by hand, then remove pins.



View from the outside of the skirt.

Then take a piece of heavy paper again. Then place a piece of heavy paper in the middle of the skirt. Then pin the original right fold line (blue thread) and the left back panel together along the original left fold line (blue thread).

Then baste (yellow thread) the original right fold line and the left back panel together along the original left fold line, then remove pins.

 View from the inside of the skirt.

Then take a piece of heavy paper again. Then place a piece of heavy paper in the middle of the skirt. Then create a top stitching line. It means, use a ruler and a sliver of the soap, and draw vertical line on the zipper.


Then pin along the white line, pin through the zipper tape and the skirt fabric.

Then baste (red thread) along the pins, then remove pins.

View from the outside of the skirt.

Then use a sewing machine and sew up along the hand basting stitches (red).



View from the inside of the skirt.

View from the outside of the skirt.
Then remove all basting threads from the zipper area, and pull the sewing threads to the inside of the skirt. 






Then press seam lines of the zipper area, use a moisture press cloth. 











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